Adventure travel | i dont see the monkey

6: Mae Hong Son: Land of Spirits

Posted on July 11, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

My last days on this road trip are spent in the town of Mae Hong Son culminating one week on the road.

Quite a personal time. Beautiful and soulful temples abound.

I definitely recommend at least a few days here.

One of the most charming, simple and yet spiritual places I have found in Thailand.

I found a deep peace here. Chomg Kang was my favourite temple in town, but there are many more to discover.

I was able to meditate alone for several days in this temple.

There are many antique Burmese dolls within

Even the bushes house spirits!

A warning to some? Pictorial representations of samsara from a temple wall. You can see that it is written in both Thai and Burmese script. I have also noticed something else new here. Thai and Burmese Buddhist monks walking and talking together. The Thai’s wear orange and the Burmese wear red. We are basically at the border here where it is almost border-less. The one culture blends into the other, and at times it is difficult to say what is Thai and what is Burmese. It’s a wonderful intersection of history, culture, and peoples.

I finish this little trip on a quiet note. It is sometimes the small, more human, more organic places that really reach inside of you and stay with you. On the surface, there seems not a lot here, but the longer you stay, the more the stress falls away, the more you notice the people, the differences, the tranquility. In contrast to the brutal ugliness of Pai, thank goodness MHS remains undeveloped and relatively untouched. Possibly due to it’s more remote location – only the more adventurous make it here. But it is a pleasant mix of foreign and Thai tourists, and not too many. Most congregate down by the lake, where a few quiet bars stay open until late. But the peace endures. Let it always be so.

Having now seen a fair bit of Thailand, from the far south to the far north, I can say that this is one of Thailand’s hidden treasures. I was reluctant to leave and hope I have the opportunity to return again soon.

5: Mae Hong Song to Pangmapha (Soppong): and a Forest Monastery

Posted on July 9, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

Relatively smaller trip today, about 2 hours north of Mae Hong Song, along the road that eventually leads to Pai. This is the absolute most north westerly point of Thailand by main road.

There are villages you can journey too that go further north, right up to the Burmese border. Some of these villages are Shan and long-necks. But I have yet to do them. The road contains many opportunities to visit waterfalls, caves and temples. Many of the views are stunning

Wat Tam Wua is a Theravadin buddhist vipassana meditation centre for Thais and non-Thais. You can live here and practice but it is hard and not for the faint hearted.

Set in a wonderful mountain valley it abounds with nature, flora and fauna

Accommodation is in traditional style kutis like this, and also more modern style

The road from Wat Tam Wua to Soppong is visually stunning

Food, petrol and and conveniences exist in Soppong. There is little of such in-between.

4: Mae Sariang to Mae Hong Son: Two delightful little towns

Posted on July 9, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

Woke up this morning in Mae Sariang with the sound of the river Yuam running vigorously outside my bedroom, on the foothills of the Salween national park. Here is the exact view:

The Yuam river at close proximity, on the foothills of the vast Salween national park. To be next to this river is very healing.

Mae Sariang is a small town and district alongside the Yuam River in Mae Hong Son Province, northern Thailand, along the Myanmar border. The areas around Mae Sariang are mountainous and forested.

Satellite view of Mae Sariang in the far north west of Thailand next to the Shan states of Burma

After a great breakfast at ‘Intera’ (one of the best places I have found to eat so far. Check out the owners collection of old motorbikes) I have a mosey around this delightful quiet little town, and take in some of the Buddhist Burmese pagodas. Mae Sariang is a peaceful town, not much going on the surface, not many tourists and is authentic. Thankfully It is not developed for tourism yet. For those seeking the real Thailand it is worth spending time here. People have that relaxed mountain feel about them. They are friendly, and look straight into your eyes.

Typical street view from Mae Sariang with Burmese style temple in background

There are many Burmese style temples and pagodas in Mae Sariang, which are noticeably different from say Chiang Mai and elsewhere in Thailand. The Burmese influence is quite visible in the people, faces, dress, food and architecture.

11am head out of town and up north to Mae Hong Son. The journey takes 3 hours at 80-100Kmh and is a much easier road. Rain is coming down hard, and it can hurt. Don’t know how some Thai’s can drive in this without a helmet and visor. Essential protection.

After three hours of driving through heavy rain, eventually come into the very special eco environment of Mae Hong Song. Another undeveloped, friendly, delightful town which has a different feel that I believe is unique. The word ‘lush’ is a fitting adjective.

The lake at Mae Hong Son with view across mountains

Main temple at Mae Hong Son which houses many ancient Burmese statues

Mae Hong Son (แม่ฮ่องสอน) is a town in the northwest, the capital of Mae Hong Son Province. It is in the Shan Hills, near the border with Burma along the banks of the River Pai. As of 2005, the town had some 6,023 inhabitants. Mae Hong Son is 883 km north of Bangkok and 251 km northwest of Chiang Mai.

After four days on the road, and about 1000Km behind, half of it in the rain, I finally arrive at my destination. The Piya guesthouse in Mae Hong Son is one of the nicest I could find. Complete with pool to relax and close to a great little restaurant called the ‘Salween’ at which I seem to be permanently rooted. Wifi works great at both locations. Two rare gems. The locals friendly and relaxed. No stress, no drama. I could happily stay here a month.

My new home for a week.

Today’s journey map

3: Chasing the rains: Mae Sot to Mae Sariang, Burmese refugees, a delightful English couple, and more snakes

Posted on July 6, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

Left Mae Sot late morning. Many police out today at the border pulling over traffic and checking cargoes.

Mission is to get back north to Mae Sariang from the Mae Sot border crossing. About 5 hours drive through mountains and valleys.

After 1.5 hours I came across the Burmese refugee town again. It is called Mae La, and goes on for about a mile. There are nearly 50,000 refugees in this camp. They have been here since the 1980s. They can’t go home because of persecution. They aren’t allowed out of the camps because the Thai’s won’t let them. They are effectively ‘stateless’. Thai guards stared at me the whole length I drove along it, and they didn’t smile back.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_La_refugee_camp

No BBC crew ever came here. They are forgotten people But given the immense size of Thailand, I couldn’t help thinking why on earth don’t you just let these people out to go live and work in Thailand. What different would it make?

(“Serious human rights abuses have been reported here and in the province, whereby local Thai police collude with local business and mafia in trafficking Burmese slave labour, after decades of massive refugee camps accumulating on the Thai side of the border:” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Sot_District)

For an excellent expose on Mae La camp, and it’s people, see:

Driving on through and further up north another hour, I am lucky to find this petrol station. Without which, I’d be scuppered.

The gas pumps are old school. I like them.

I believe this is the Moei river, the other side being Burma. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moei_River

There is something timeless about this river

I passed many Thais working in the paddy fields.

Natural waterfalls and more snakes on the road. I drove over one of them. I wasn’t happy about that. When you’re hitting 80Kmh, coming around corners, and there is a five foot snake slithering across the road surface in front of you, there is little you can do to avoid it. ,

There was also this enthusiastic pack of goats. Luckily they did not attack.

And these friendly buffalo. Unlike the snakes, they are unconcerned about oncoming vehicles.

For about 30 minutes we lose the road surface and we are onto a dirt track.

I went to quickly relieve myself in the undergrowth, keeping a watchful eye out for snakes.

Instead I was bitten by a fire ant.

Either way, they will get you.

After heavy rains, landslides like these on the roads are something to expect.

The views over the mountains are stunning.

Thai traditional houses are so beautiful to look at and to live in.

My lodgings by the Salween river bank, on finally reaching Mae Sariang to rest for the night.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Sariang_District

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salween_River

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moei_River

2: Burmese tea house: Myawaddy

Posted on July 5, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

Today border crossing Mae Sot (Thailand) to Myawaddy (Burma).

The border crossing was almost completely empty and unstressed. Very different to the Mae Sai crossing in the far north of Thailand.

Not many people cross here, as few make it to this town. Border guards were friendly and helpful on both sides.

I have read bad reviews of the Mae Sot crossing. Do not believe them.

No stress on the Burmese side, except the ‘India like’ traffic (more erratic than Thailand, lots of horn honking) and many stray dogs. It is much easier than Mae Sai and far less hassle.

I sat with the guys in a tea house and they were so polite and friendly.

The Burmese know how to make tea. Better than the English, better than the Thais. This is delicious.

And the ladies smile at you in the street. It makes me want to go back to Burma soon and get to know it more. Granted it is less developed than Thailand and certainly rougher around the edges. But each to their own. From what little I’ve seen, I like this land, and it’s people.

I’m coming back.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myawaddy

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mae_Sot

1: On the road like Kerouak: didn’t shave, didn’t comb, don’t care

Posted on July 4, 2015 by Patrick Malcolm

Last visa run. Every two months falangs (non Thais) have to travel to another country to redeem their tourist visa. Some do not like this and see it as an unwelcome inconvenience. I take it as an invitation to have an adventure.

This time I am going south west from Chiang Mai to a little known border crossing called Mae Sot. It takes 8 hours by motorcycle. The first stop is Mae Sariang, 3 hours from Chiang Mai.

Once past Mae Sariang on the far west of Thailand, the road south narrows to an almost pathway through an hour of tiny winding roads and dells with tight bends, then up into the high mountains where you are with and above the clouds.

These trails look down across stunning vistas and over blue mountain ranges. Among the peaks are golden temples built on pinnacles. I have no clue how to reach them, only the villagers know. For about 1 hour the road is undeveloped, potholes, huge cracks that will take you off your bike, and sheer ravines. I had large snakes slither across my path, landslides coming out into the roadway (heavy rain today), and discovered a refugee town (Karen Burmese).

Theravadin Buddhist monks walking the jungle in their orange robes and armed checkpoints are the other things you will likely meet along this little traveled way. For hours there was nothing on the road behind me, I was by myself.

Make sure you have enough gas in your vehicle because there are absolutely no facilities for hours at a stretch. I took a few pictures here along the route, but it is hard to capture the experience with a camera unless skilled.